Monday, December 22, 2008

Thanksgiving in Chaddy

Having my own apartment I was fortunate to host a Thanksgiving feast at my place! We had a homegrown Moldovan turkey freshly butchered from a village.. I learned he had his own seat on the bus to my town. We decided to give him an American & Russian name and called him FRED IVANOVICH. He was a tasty little turkey.

A bunch of fellow Peace Corps volunteers came over along with co-worker/partner Tanya and her daughter Lida. We ate a stuffed Fred, green bean casserole, a cuban citrus chicken dish, deviled eggs, Indian fried eggplant, homemade pumpkin pie, apple crisp with ice-cream, fudge and homemade house wine.

We had so much fun dancing around in the kitchen all day, and eating all night! Ibrahim, my boyfriend, even joined us from Istanbul via Skype! We had a very international Thanksgiving in Moldova.

Friday, October 31, 2008

Dance party fundraiser - Guboglio Lycea (High School)

Check out photos from a successful Halloween dance party fundraiser! Considering Halloween isn't a holiday celebrated in Moldova I'm surprised how much students really got into dressing up in costumes and make-up! We had lots of fun putting this together. We raised about $28 which will help us buy supplies for the office.

Saturday, October 18, 2008

Grape-picking & wine-making

Back in September a neighboring Peace Corps Volunteer invited me to her host family's vineyard in their backyard located in the Bulgarian village of Tvarditza (still in Moldova). We picked grapes, drank freshly squeezed juice, and ate a feast afterwards!

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Putin Sighting


Waiting for a girlfriend on Stefan Cel Mare Street, directly across from Stefan the statue himself I stumbled upon an exciting event!

Vladimir Putin, former Russian president and currently Prime Minister was paying a visit to Moldova. I thought it strange that traffic was stopped on the main street in town, assuming a caravan of important delegates would eventually drive by to an embassy or something. Instead I was pleasantly surprised. Directly across the street from where I was standing at the Stefan Cel Mare statue a military band started playing the Russian national anthem while Putin walked out from a fancy black car carrying a flower wreath draped over with the Russian flag. While the band began playing the Moldovan national anthem and media cameras rushed out to capture the quick display of friendship he laid the wreath at the foot of Stefan, the former 15th century king and hero of Moldova.

It was quite a coincidence! For once I was at the right spot at the right time.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Summer

Once again, I thought my blog would update itself, but alas it did not. So here's a little bit about my summer that flew by!

Work has been very slow going. One of my partners was working in Russia for three months while my other partner said it was too hot to have children in our office for any activities. In the winter it is too cold, and fall and spring not much happens. Hmm... Thank goodness for vacations!

My sister was generous and let me use her NW airline miles so I was able to fly home for two weeks! Thanks Sis!! It was a fast trip, but wonderful! I was able to see almost all of my close friends and family... the highlight was celebrating my Mom's 60th birthday at my sister's house. My Mom isn't usually one to enjoy birthdays, but I'm pretty sure she didn't mind having so many friends and family around her at once. We also ate delicious BBQ's salmon that my brother-in-law, Jeff caught in Alaska. It was amazing!!

This is a slideshow I made for the party about my Mom's life. She's now a photographer so it seems a fitting gift ;)



Here are some photos from my trip

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Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Ialoveni with Luda

Hanging out in a beautiful home with Luda, a former student at the Lycea I work at... It was a fun weekend, even it the swimming pool was empty!

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Friday, July 11, 2008

Transylvania, Romania

My fellow Peace Corps Volunteer & Friend, Neha and I took a wonderful mini-vacation to neighboring Romania. We wandered around Brasov & Sigisoara-- it was breathtaking and a much needed respite!

So much to share...

It took us 7 hours to get out of Moldova at customs as officials tore apart the bus we were traveling on with power drills. Literally they tore it apart. After a looooong wait another bus was finally sent for us. In the meantime I saw custom officials pulling out all kinds of boxes from within the bus. I wonder what they were trying to smuggle in? On the positive side, the customs officials actually did their job and didn't take a bribe! At least it seemed that way...

We met hitchhikers and vacationers from all over the world-- mostly Europe. The interesting ones must travel through Romania! We had some good times in the evenings at the hostel. Scot from Scotland and his Irish friend Greihm taught us some Scottish slang... He's neckin the puss of yer beak! He also taught me that I, and all women have "jebs".

Most of the time Neha and I wandered around the medieval town of Brasov looking at beautiful buildings, perusing museums, climbing a small Carpathian mountain (secretly hoping to run into a bear on the way), and eating delicious non-traditional(non-Moldovan/Romanian) food! We actually ate at the "China Restaurant" and in other restaurants devoured bowls filled with pasta. My favorite was eating a bowl full of salad with lettuce!!! Such a treat!

It's evident that Romania is part of the EU... it seems put together! The roads are nice, food is surprisingly cheaper, street lights work, and people in general tend to be.... happy! Amazing! I was impressed with Transylvania and how much forest surrounds quaint medieval villages and towns. Absolutely an amazing place to visit. I'd love to go back one day.

Neha and I mustered all the Romanian words we could... as Russian, and sometimes English weren't understood. Once again I became talented at gesturing like a madwoman. Good times. Good times.

We met an angel on the way leaving Romania. She told us what a wonderful thing it was to be in the Peace Corps, something volunteers (including myself) often question during service. She really encouraged us, and as a woman who has lived throughout the world, travels alone, and works with children with behavioral issues- she really is an angel!

Overall, this trip really refreshed me... Maybe I can even cry? I haven't shed a tear since coming to Moldova, which is strange since it's been almost a year since I've been here. I feel almost inhuman at times when I know I should/would have cried. Interestingly, I learned Neha feels the same way. We've become NUMB. Moldova has a lot to offer... cell phones, internet service, delicious fruit... but emotionally it is a draining place to live if you're not used to the post-Soviet mentality. I feel so much more relaxed from this trip soaking in beauty and happiness. I still haven't shed a tear, but I'm hoping I CAN one day soon! Sounds silly, but I really want to!

Here are some photos of Romania!

Click here for Romania photos: Brasov, Castles, Sigisoara- Birthplace of "Dracula" - or watch the slideshow.

Monday, June 23, 2008

June

This month I told my host parents I'm interested in looking for an apartment of my own. Being 30 years old, it's about time I take care of myself and live by my own rules. And to be honest I'm REALLY excited about cooking for myself!!! Thinking I was being courteous and telling my host family in advance has become more dramatic than I ever anticipated.

At first my host mother was very understanding and realized my decision has little to do with them (mostly). She also knew I had visitors coming from America the end of June since I've been talking about it for months.

It turned out she also had important visitors arriving, her daughter's new in-laws visiting for the first time from Israel the same exact day my guests arrived. She told me I needed to find an apartment in 10 days so that her guests could stay in my room. That really put a lot of pressure on me and my partner who did her best to start looking. We were hopeful because the Bulgarian dance teacher was returning home the same week I was asked to move out. Unfortunately, his landlady didn't want to rent out to anyone!! So I'm still looking. :(

Janet & John Yoder arrived in Ceadir-Lunga which was an adventure in itself- listening to cooks and waitors fighting in the kitchen over what we presumed were lamb kabobs; eating freshly purchased melted ice-cream; and Lenin statue photo opts. I ended up spending the night at my partner, Tanya's house which turned out to be a special treat. Her sister was visiting from Odessa and we sat outside under the grape arbor and ate freshly picked cherries, drank wine, recited poetry, and talked well into the night.


The next day I brought John and Janet over to her house. They gave us a tour of their garden, showed us the well, we ate delicious cherry cake, and once again heard Lida and Lova recite poetry. We all really enjoyed this visit. I'm so blessed to have such a wonderful and kind coworker!!

I'm still technically homeless. All my things are still in my room at my host family's house, but I'm not able to spend the night there even though I've paid June rent. Gotta love it.

Instead I'm now playing guide to the Yoders, who keep complimenting me on how well my Russian is... a much needed encouragement! Even though I've lived here almost a year I've been able to be a tourist in Chisinau for the first time! It was great!

Here are some photos of our adventures together: visiting Moldova

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Boxing in Comrat

In the Comrat, the capital of the Semi-Autonomous Region of Gagauzia (the region where I currently live) I had a rare opportunity to visit a sports school. I randomly met the boxing teacher (originally from Uzbekistan) on a bus and he invited me to hang out at his school one day. The students study regular classes, and then spend morning and afternoons training in either boxing, wrestling, soccer, and other sports. Not surprisingly, it's a boys' school!

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Sunday, May 25, 2008

Odessa Photos





Finally, adventures in Odessa, Ukraine are available for your viewing pleasure! It took a while to find all the photos and put them together, but I did it!

Here you go!





The following are clips from the April Fool's Day celebration- complete with exotic animals, playboy dog, parade with hari krishna followers, and the West-Side Massive boys.

Tarantulas!

There are tarantulas in Moldova!

Boys lure them out of their holes around town by putting a putty-like ball on a string and dipping it into their lair until they grab hold.

They are HUGE!

Some boys thought it a good idea to bring a few of these hairy spiders inside the school for English Club. They got the reaction they were looking for- lots of screaming girls running for the doorway!

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Memorial Day

May 9, 2008 was Moldova's memorial day.

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Imagine.... a new update! Must write more, lots more later. In the meantime, enjoy the video!

Friday, April 11, 2008

Stay Tuned...

Unfortunately my laptop has been inundated by hackers and now refuses to turn on. Sadly, this means that any new photos and videos will be few and far between until I can get my computer fixed. Send positive thoughts for its full (and inexpensive) recovery!

Stories to come:

Mexican Feast for new Ukrainian friends: I invited a few of my new border guard friends over for fajitas and tequila! It was a hit! Of course, I spent way too much money throwing it together, but it was sooo worth it just to make friends! I'm now to the point where I'm desperate for friends that live close to me- even if that means we can barely understand each other! So now instead of just learning Russian, I'm now being encouraged to speak Ukrainian... this'll be interesting! On a positive note, they offered to smuggle me across the border if I ever get stuck again. Hopefully this won't happen a second time, but it's nice to have friends with connections.

Trip to Odessa, Ukraine - April Fool's Day Festival; frolicking alone by the Black Sea; getting asked if my teeth are real; an evening stuck at the Ukrainian border with a Peace Corps rescue & my new Eastern European crush!

Too Much Wine at Work - When a birthday lunch gets giggly

Persistent Peter - somehow the guy that gave me a lift in his horsecart thinks I want to go on a date with him and keeps stopping by my house(fortunately I haven't been home when he's been there). He's begun to follow me around town streets only to trot away as I stop and talk to friends. Soon I'll need to confront him... only how to do it in my broken Russian? This will be another interesting story.

Until next time...

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Ranger Danger?!

EXCLUSIVE: We Called It the 'Ranger Danger'
http://abcnews.go.com/Blotter/story?id=4535132&page=1

So apparently the ship my brother was on that sank was in need of many repairs. It sounds like a lawsuit is in the works... so the Alaska saga continues for my little bro!

I also read that the boat sank in 15 minutes, and rescuers didn't make it there until 2 1/2 ours later! What a nightmare!

Monday, March 24, 2008

Farewell to Garlic

What a bizarre day! I was shocked and relieved to hear about my brother's rescue in the Bering Sea... and soon after posting the following blog my host father in Moldova comes into my room to let me know the family dog has been shot. Yes, SHOT!

Apparently every spring and autumn the Town Hall coordinates a death to dogs day. A posse goes around town and shoots every dog it sees on the street. Garlic, our host family's dog, was one of the few dogs that was not permanently chained to a gate- one of the reasons I chose to live with this family. Ultimately, this freedom led to his death.

I get so angry the more I learn how animals are treated here! I understand stray dogs are a major problem and they reproduce every year... but why the massacre? I know why- because animals are very rarely considered pets here. They're either food, or put to work guarding a house by being chained by a gate for life, or made to pull heavy carts. Anything else is garbage. Besides, its cheaper to kill them than to deal with them in a humane way!

Probably some of the adorable dogs I've been feeding on the streets had their last scraps of food early this morning. The murderers came out in force around 6am. Can you imagine doing that?

Aaaaaaaaah! Since coming here I've thought about doing a documentary on stray dogs.. hearing about Garlic's slaughter makes me want to do it all the more.

On the flipside I know many Americans back home spoil their animals. Some dogs eat only grand gourmet meals, and get better health care than most people! Then there are so many other countries, like Moldova, where dogs on the street are considered dirty, disease-infested nuisances. But aren't we the ones responsible for making them that way?

Grrrrrr.... This post goes out to those dogs that were slaughtered this morning.

May you enjoy Doggy Heaven, eat whatever tasty morsels you didn't get on the streets of Ceadir-Lunga, and (if reincarnation exists) may you be reborn and raised by a rich dog-lover.

My brother's alive!!



ABC News http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/ver/256.0/popup/index.php?cl=7104793

I just found out my brother's fishing boat in Alaska sank on Easter Sunday. Four people died. I'm so grateful that Dave's ok!! From what I've heard from family, it was pretty traumatic and he almost didn't make it out alive.

Thank you God for sparing my little brother! Give those you love an extra hug today!

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Spring

Finally, the sun is peaking through the clouds earlier and longer each day. As the plum trees blossom, I'm finally crawling out of my winter hibernation and exploring more around town - finally!

One day I took a two hour walk, outside of Ceadir-Lunga's city limits (I later learned toward the Ukrainian border) and I saw a small airport! There were three mini-planes and one semi-large plane. I've never seen or heard a plane fly overhead except for in the capital, Chisinau, so this was a revelation. I wonder if they actually get used?

In the local park little lambs are nibbling the new grass in bunches of energy next to their parents. On my way home from work I had an interesting conversation with some shepherds- about politics of course. Imagine, my broken Russian mixed with Gagauzian words; two shepherds; lots of sheep in the park on the way home; talking about George Bush, Iraq, Putin; and the meaning of life.
A very surreal moment.

Other news? Yesterday I did a thorough spring cleaning- whacked the large floor carpet outside (a great stress reliever), moved around furniture, and organized all my paperwork, and realized I moved the tv too far away from the cable. Oh well, so much for "studying" with the tv, until I get a new cable, or the energy to change my room back. So... since I was exhausted after wiping down the floors, walls, and any other place I thought needed to be wiped, I took a nap. Guess who came calling? My horsecart man, Pyotr!! Now this is getting embarrassing. He's stopped by the house twice now asking for me. I have no interest in going to a bar with the guy, since that's really the only place to hang out other than in his horsecart, and who knows where that might lead! Flattering as it is, the time will soon come when I need to dash his hopes of courtship. I'm learning my lesson about smiling too much, and the signals it sends... Definitely makes for fun stories though.

On a hopeful note, my host mom and I have planted lots of seeds in their dark-soiled garden. I included lots of foliage like lettuce and some other yummy looking greens that I haven't eaten before but am desperate to chew on a daily basis! I'm really tired of lack of vegetables, and mentioned it to my host mom, politely of course. She bought two carrots- I sliced them up and we ate them! It was such a treat! That's how exciting one vegetable has know become to me. Imagine when the seeds we sowed actually sprout into edible deliciousness. God-willing there isn't a drought again this summer because I plan to roll around in the garden munching on whatever green thing I can grab out of the ground!

I also smuggled over a few seeds from Japan last summer that I've planted in yogurt containers and placed on the kitchen windowsill where I watch daily for baby sprouts to appear. If they decide to thrive in Moldova I'll have yellow mini-tomatoes, Ao-shiso, Aoba leaves, and yellow watermelon! Can't wait.

Work? Hmm.. It's a challenge working for two counterparts who both want to be active. I'm not complaining because many other volunteers sit around twiddling their thumbs begging for work to do! At the same time, it's uncomfortable sitting in a room with both your counterparts (coworkers) while they're arguing over YOU! Basically they both think I spend too much time with the other person. To think I should once again feel flattered to have people fighting over me, but in reality it's more of a headache. I've come up with a solution! Recently BOTH my counterparts have offices for their NGOs (before only one did). So despite neither partners really having consistent schedules, I've decided to hang out in their offices on certain days of the week, starting tomorrow. I know events, meetings, activities will still conflict but at least it's a start!


Right now the biggest time consumer is the English Club at the elementary school. One of my partners wanted me to run this club for her daughter's class. As much as I LOVE little kids 1) I still don't speak very good Russian enough to lead a group of active youngsters, and 2) I didn't come here to teach English. So I decided to enlist the help of teenagers from the local high school to "lead" the English Club. It requires a lot more work on my part as I meet with each group of volunteers and go over possible themes, games, and methods on how to deal with rowdy kids. Fortunately over 20 youth volunteered to help with English Club, and breaking them into groups of three or four means a new group teaches every week making it more likely they'll want to keep volunteering (less commitment). I'm also excited because it's teaching them organizational and leadership skills that many don't have opportunities to develop or practice. Sounds so Peace Corps!

So the first English Club day was GREAT! Personally, I believe because my partner was their to help keep the children listening. The theme was animals and we played lots of games, including Duck, Duck, Goose - definitely a favorite!

The second time my partner couldn't come, and the youth that were teaching were incredibly soft-spoken. So guess who did all the directing, encouraging, and child calming?? Yours truly! It was a nightmare... it wouldn't have made a difference had I broken out in Japanese. I tried to implement a way for the children to be quiet by not starting the next activity until everyone put on their moose antlers. It worked the first few times... but then the teenagers, and later I also resorted to raising my voice at the antler-less kids. It was pretty funny.

The whole purpose of the English Club was for kids to ENJOY learning with lots of games, unlike a typical Moldovan classroom. I thought it was great when the teenagers gave each kid a piece of paper, and then asked them to draw a picture of the words they learned through other games. I was shocked when I saw them collect the papers, and while I was trying to control the classroom (since they weren't starting a new activity) I saw they were GRADING their artwork!!!!!!! One of the youths was giving out 7s, 8s, and 9s (the highest mark is 10). I felt like they completely missed the point. At least I know it's not just important to teach games and how to play them, but also what NOT to do... in other words, how to play the Americana way- smile, smile, smile.

Also when first agreeing to do this club, my partner told me that parents would come help out - easing my fear about the current language barrier. Well, so far no one has come. Cross your fingers for me... If I end up resorting to yelling at little kids every week, someone else will have to take this club over ;)

Which leads me to... Since I'm asked so often to do English-related activities, I mentioned that they should apply for a TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) Volunteer. They agreed, applied for one, and will get one in September!!! So guess who will inherit the English Club? And guess who will visit when she wants to play? Yup! That's how to work it baby.

Onto more adventures...

Monday, March 10, 2008

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Horse-drawn Carriage

Wow! I just had a surreal experience. When horse carts go by I usually watch, like the foreigner I am, because its still exciting for me to watch people drive carts like cars. So this afternoon, while walking home, I watched a horse cart and nodded to the driver as he saw me looking in his horse's direction. About 5 minutes later the same cart came towards me. Apparently the man (and his horse) had gone around the block and stopped in front of me.

I had a feeling where this was going when he said "Privet" and tipped his hat to me. He asked my name... and his second question was if I was married. Hmmm...

Pyotr (English equivalent: Peter) was pretty forward asking for my phone number. I managed to not give it to him politely, and he asked where we could meet again. I told him where I worked... figuring if he really does come I can convince him to be a volunteer in our organization- sneaky, I know.

Anyway, he offered to drive me home. I normally don't get into cars (or horse carts) alone with strangers, but considering he couldn't drive fast, we were literally out in the open, and I had never ridden in a horse cart yet I quickly accepted his offer. Upon arriving home, my host father saw me get out of the cart. I couldn't help thinking about Sense & Sensibility and how controversial it would've been so long ago. Of course I didn't have a long dress to get caught on the way down, nor fancy white gloves, but I do have ample time to imagine.

Thus was another day in Moldova.

Sunday, March 2, 2008

Turning 30!

Amazingly February has come and gone- and without an entry in my blog!

I seem to be obsesses with only making entries when I have film or photos to share. Perhaps I should get over this desire to display visuals and openly write comments as well.

So February. One of the biggest highlights happened on the 2nd. It was my 30th birthday! As my long-time friends back home couldn't be around for the big bash, I instead had a warm dinner party in my host family's house. I invited new friends from different parts of my life here in Ceadir-Lunga. Expecting everyone at 5pm, Neha and I began cooking around 2pm. Three hours later we still had massive amounts to do! People began arriving, and I was frantic in the kitchen. I decided to stop pretending to be Moldovan having a beautiful table prepared for everyone in advance, and put my friends to work. There were probably about 8 people scurrying around a tiny kitchen. We made homemade gyouza (also known as potstickers), and thanks to a large food package of goodness sent from Japan, we also made sushi rolls! I taught them how to make and roll them, and my friends did all the work. It was great! The Okonomiyaki (Japanese cabbage cakes) were a hit!

As more people began pouring in, even people I didn't invite, I began worry that we wouldn't have enough food so I made a huge pot of Japanese curry. To my delight, and surprise, my host mother brought to the table a baked goose, and delicious rice-filled cabbage rolls. Everyone was stuffed, slightly buzzed from the champagne and cognac, and lavishingly giving toasts. It was a fun night. Little girls that I didn't know would arrive began pounding on the piano, pretending to perform a classical masterpiece, then fortunately decided that reciting poetry would get more applause. Extended family member began arriving, more guests I didn't expect. The house was so full that we were in two rooms eating and laughing.

All in all, it was a good time. My friends cooked the meal, and we were entertained by adorable children. What more could I have asked for?

And yes, here's a video.

Thursday, January 31, 2008

Wedding Wailers

I was incredibly fortunate to have been invited to my host-father's nephew's wedding. It was really beautiful with lots of food, dancing, more food and more dancing!

Sadly, I didn't film some of the most interesting parts... like when the two couples chosen to help the couple during their marriage (with advice and such -similar to Godparents to a newborn baby) danced around each other with a chicken on a plate and a round braided bread roll. After dancing with their own featherless chicken,at the end of the song they exchanged chickens in goodwill.

I also forgot to film the beautiful and melodic Gagauzian dances!! I was too enthralled. Hopefully in the next year and a half, I'll be priveleged enough to see these dances again and show them to you!

I did film when the bride's veil is replaced with a headscarf, symbolizing she is now a wife. As the veil was being replaced, men pretended to wail and cry. She was now a taken woman, and no longer available. While they were wailing, I was trying not to laugh.

If you're a feminist you may not appreciate the Moldovan tradition of giving the bride a broom and dustpan to sweep up money. At the same time, the groom was the one to bend down, pick up the donations, and give to his wife! Good husband!

The video is about 6 minutes long. I danced quite a bit, but that's not shown... especially when it was time for the fancy footwork... as you'll see!

One personal highlight was when a man asked me to dance. While on the dance floor he asked me my name, then realized I wasn't from Moldova. He guessed I was from Turkey, very common in these parts. When I told him I was from America, he looked shocked and even stopped dancing for a few seconds asking me over and over... "Amerikanka? I'm dancing with an Amerikanka?" Throughout the dance he kept looking at me in surprise and told other couples dancing around us, "I'm dancing with an Amerikanka." It's nice to so easily entertain. He asked me to dance many times after, inbetween other men asking. I have never danced so much in my life!

My host-parents and I left for the wedding at 4pm and didn't arrive home until 7am the next day!! They sure know how to party here in Moldova!

Toby Talk

I found a few clips of my last day in Orhei where I filmed my host-family's dog, Toby (a two-month old puppy & one of my first Moldovan friends), practicing the English I taught him. He's a cutie, and probably huge now! He was only 3 months old in the clip.

Ruff! Ruff!

Be warned: The following contains 2 minutes of "Speak!", "Bark!", and "Good boy!"...

Thursday, January 17, 2008

Moldova in the Summertime

Here are some beautiful photos of Moldova I found on Youtube (not my own)... I have yet to experience the warm summer with fresh peaches bursting off the trees. After watching this video, I can't wait! These photos show Moldova's beautiful landscape and culture. (Amazingly I've already been to most places shown here.)

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Christmas Carolers

Here's a short video of some holiday carolers. Apparently boys and girls go caroling on different days. In return for their entertainment, we gave them each a bag of candy, pretzels, and a little bit of money. Imagine how much they gathered after making the neighborhood rounds?

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Holidaaaaaaaaaaaays

Where do I begin? The holidays have been soooo loooooong. Here's a summation of what I did besides the hours of sleeping, eating, and reading, and sleeping.

The first day of "vacation", which now feels more like house-arrest began on Friday, December 29th. I spent the first day cleaning up the house with my host-mom for family coming to stay for the holidays. I went into work for a short while to visit government employees at the mayor's office whom were forced to work on Saturdays to make up for the long vacation that was to come.

That Friday night, my coworker invited me out for a holiday party in a small bar outside of the main part of town. On our walk there, we spotted a freshly born puppy crying in the middle of the road. This was pretty traumatic because I really wanted to help the puppy, but my coworkers encouraged me to move on (and told me a car would put it out of its misery soon). Talk about an ethical dilemma. I love animals, and if I was in the States I would've taken the puppy home and taken care of it, or given it to an animal shelter. Here there are no animals shelters (yet), and people mostly take care of their own and don't have the time or ability to worry about much else. Needless to say, it was a depressing start to a party. I gave in and let the puppy cry in the middle of the road. I really hope a car came soon after. My reasoning? It would be better for the little creature to be put out of it's misery than to live on the streets begging for scraps the rest of it's life- especially during winter's freezing temperatures.

Fortunately, after a few mandatory shots of cognac I slowly stopped obsessing about the puppy and began to have fun with my new coworkers and friends. We ate a delicious meal of lamb chops, mashed potatoes, and Greek salad. Of course cognac was flowing the entire evening. I don't usually drink very much, and I think I was the most sober one out of the bunch. There was a lot of dancing and drinking, drinking and dancing. I danced with lots of different guys. I even had a stranger pick-up on me... of course I think he was drunk, but my first pick-up session in Russian was flattering. Even if I didn't understand everything he said to me.

The crazy part began with the ride home. Picture it being 2am. It's freezing cold outside, and everyone is drunk. Everyone. Including the driver that is suppose to take us home. My coworker tried convincing me that Russians drive better when they're drunk, but being mostly sober I told her I was uncomfortable and would rather walk. Eventually she convinced me to get in the car because she felt responsible for me and wanted to make sure I got home. It was freezing cold, pitch black outside, and I lived a good 45 minute walk away. Hmm... another dilemma.

Foolishly I got into the car. After a few minutes of grabbing the seat for dear life as our inebriated driver sped down residential streets I asked to be let out so I could walk. He began yelling that he was a good driver, and spurting out political innuendos about Americans.... (earlier in the evening he lectured me about the glorious Soviet Era and the many short comings of the American government). My coworker tried calming him down, telling him I had only been in the country a few months and didn't mean to insult him. It's true, I didn't want to insult him, especially since he held my life in his hands, but I also wanted to get out of the car as quickly as possible. Eventually he listened to me yelling at him to stop, and then he skidded around in a full circle before suddenly stopping at a gas station. My coworker got out with me and he sped away. A bit of a scary experience, but later I heard that he arrived home OK - hopefully without hitting any people or puppies. I ended up walking 20 minutes home which wasn't too bad, even at 2am. To my relief, I arrived home safe and sound!

The moral of the story? NEVER get into a car with a drunk driver, especially one that doesn't like where you're from. ;)

That was the most exciting and character-stretching portion of my holiday experience here so far. The rest of the time has been cozy, fuzzy, and warm with lots of family visitors, and food. Did I mention food? Or food? Yes, food.



As the days of vacation began to stretch before me, I decided to bake. I baked about 10 batches of cookies; a few batches too many. I was glad for the distraction to keep me busy. The downside is we've had cookies laying all around the house for over a week now, despite all the guests and dinner parties.

The rest of the holiday I spent reading books, watching movies, taking naps, going for walks in -15C weather, and did my best to pass the time as quickly as possible. Since I'm currently on "lock-down" (a Peace Corps rule where new volunteers aren't allowed to leave their site/town), I was home alone most of the time because my host family went to the Ukraine to visit extended family. Ukraine is a short 20 minute drive away. It's so close, but I wasn't allowed to go. Boo hoo. One day I'll get there!!

Was I homesick? Was I slightly depressed? Was I questioning my reason for joining the Peace Corps and living in Moldova? Was I struggling with culture shock? Was I dreaming of all the other places in the world I could've been at that moment? Was I wishing I could go out for a cocktail with my friends in Seattle? Was I craving Japanese, Thai and Indian food? Was I starting to lose all sense of self, babbling, and drooling? Mostly the answer was YES! But I know this is a phase that will pass. It's just crappy to live through a long holiday when you're incredibly bored and mostly alone. The sun will start shining in my little head again soon, and raindrops on roses, whiskers on kittens will help me through the day as I sing "The hills are alive". Sometimes blind idealism makes life prettier and more doable, but it's a long way back down to reality. Maybe I should pour a glass of my host father's homemade wine and stop writing now. Better for all of us if I do!

Host Family's House

Below is a video showing how wonderfully spoiled I am by Moldovan standards. My host parents are both professionals- my host-father a dentist, and my host-mother a doctor. They recently remodeled their home, and then I arrived! Lucky me! In this video you can see some of the pets too. Garlic, the rumbunctious family dog was running freely on the town streets when I shot this film, but you saw him in a previous clip. Welcome to my world!